Joan Jackson tells the story of the special relationship between the Merchant Navy Locomotive Preservation Society and the Venice-Simplon Orient Express.
Sitting in my luxury seat on the Southampton boat train hauled by an immaculately-presented ‘Merchant Navy’, it is almost impossible to believe that 27 years ago a steam ban fell across the nation.
For here we are, racing through the south of England to the coast to deliver passengers to an ocean-going liner and bring seafarers back to the capital in style. At the front of our rake of Pullmans is No. 35028 Clan Line – back where she belongs and doing the job she was designed for, no less.
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One of the outgoing passengers remarked to me that rail travel had regressed since the heyday of the luxury expresses and that the elegance of those days of steam was now only to be found in such trains as the ‘Venice Simplon-Orient-Express’ (VSOE). Looking around me at the lovingly-restored British Pullmans, it was hard to disagree. Sheer pride in the workmanship of all aspects of the coaches shines out for everyone to see.
But how on earth did Clan Line make the transition from unpromising beginnings in the early days of the Merchant Navy Locomotive Preservation Society (MNLPS) to this prestigious role at the head of what is arguably the country’s most historic and glamorous train?
The answer is that it took years of building up a reputation as a reliable main line locomotive with a dedicated team of volunteers who would pull out all the stops to make sure their engine was turned out in fine mechanical and visual condition. Those of us involved in the maintenance of steam locomotives know only too well just how demanding a challenge that is!
Having painstakingly built up its reputation since the very early days of steam preservation, the team was determined to make sure that the engine’s income was secured as far as possible for the foreseeable future. As a veteran of the hallowed InterCity Marylebone-Stratford-upon-Avon Sunday luncheon trains, the MNLPS knew what was expected for a prestige train and proceeded accordingly.
In 1993, during the loco’s last heavy overhaul, the group had taken the decision to pioneer air-braking for Clan Line as they saw oil vacuum-braked stock deteriorating and the whole coaching position becoming precarious. There was at the time little enthusiasm for air braking amongst other engine owners but the society decided to go it alone. Extra funds had to be raised but it was nevertheless considered a sound commercial proposition as the engine would be available to haul most train sets.
The opulence and splendour which characterises Pullman travel is seen to good effect as the authoress dines with VSOE official Martin Newnham-Darling on April 14, 1996. Steward Michael Legg looks on.
Early in 1994, the Special Trains Unit and VSOE decided to support the Royal London Society for the Blind by agreeing to a steam-hauled charity run to Portsmouth on September 28 that year. As Clan Line was the obvious candidate, the MNLPS was suddenly faced with a deadline for returning to the main line fully air-braked.
The members saw the opportunity and went for it! This was made possible as a result of countless hours of help and support from members, friends, families and railwaymen to ensure they made it. That it came about at all was in no small measure thanks to the vision and foresight of Steve McCall, former head of the Special Trains Unit, who, together with his Southern steam team, pioneered steam running over third-rail territory.
The charity run was a huge success which gave the VSOE management something to think about. The organisation had been interested in running steam-hauled trains, but the problems seemed many and varied. With such prestigious, high-profile trains, it was essential that any steam locomotive should be both reliable and impeccably turned-out to match the train.
However, this train had proved that it could be done, on one occasion at least.
Subsequently, Goodwood Travel, a customer of VSOE, ran some steam-hauled charter trains round Kent, also with considerable success.
While the VSOE was considering the feasibility of steam haulage, the MNLPS was developing its own strategy and business plan. This was an exhaustive process, based on the study of the railway operating environment and covering both main line and preservation opportunities. It also included a research of members’ needs and ideas.
It was clear where steam was concerned, that rail privatisation would increase operating complexity and that a number of interface problems were likely, not least because with the then impending disappearance of the Special Trains Unit, the unofficial moderator of integrated supply services would be lost and costs could be expected to rise. The strategy concluded, however, that Clan Line would continue to operate to the highest standards as a main line locomotive, principally in the former Southern Region area.
By the time the VSOE approached the MNLPS, Doug Padgham, the society’s publicity officer, and Roger Creswell, its marketing officer, were ready to swing into action with proposals to create a balance between VSOE’s needs and the MNLPS, in consultation with Special Trains.
VSOE wanted someone who would be reliable, competent and professional and the MNLPS wanted to secure sufficient income to pay for Clan Line’s next boiler overhaul. Roger and Doug set up meetings to discuss contracts and a good working relationship was developed.
It was a marriage made in heaven. The VSOE company had a train made up of Pullmans, some of which had run over original Southern metals on the ‘Brighton and Bournemouth Belles’ and ‘Golden Arrow’, while the MNLPS had a locomotive which used to haul those crack expresses.
That, of course, was not only authentic but an enormous advantage as the loco already met most technical standards for running on those tracks with those cars. So it was a case of back to its roots… and one headache less for the operators to overcome.
The scheduling and timetabling are most demanding for a steam engine, with the requirement to move into and out of major London termini like Victoria in peak hours just like any other service train being a formidable challenge; especially since the eyes of the world are on such a train and there are people only too willing to jump in with “I told you so” if anything goes wrong with a steam operation.
However both sides are more than capable of rising to the challenge. For VSOE, steam was an undoubted added attraction and as the general manager of the British Pullmans, Bob Barnes, told me, it must be like a dream come true for MNLPS members to have Clan Line running through the southern countryside at 75 mph! He pointed out then the contract is mutually beneficial as the VSOE can run more authentic boat trains and charge a steam premium to cover the extra costs involved in using steam whilst Clan Line can earn its keep.
Although steam haulage is an appropriate means of travel; it is also important that the engine performs well in order to ensure a timely sea connection for passengers. He was quick to point out that the operation only works because costs are kept to a minimum by all the hours put in by the volunteers feeding, watering and maintaining the Pacific.
It is no gravy train either as the support crew has to take the engine when and where the client wants, often in midweek with at least three days and sometimes five days for one trip being taken up because of the difficulty of crossing London from the loco’s home base – Southall – to Stewarts Lane depot. The MNLPS is however, fortunate in having a highly committed support crew, whose members are willing to devote much of their time to midweek operations.
It might be thought that a prestige operator would have fewer problems than others but I am assured that this is not the case and it is very often the goodwill of the grassroots railwaymen, who have grown up with a desire to provide a service, which irons out the problems.
The fragmentation of the railway system is a nightmare which has increased costs enormously, making it ever harder to keep the show on the road. It can also be infuriating for the crew whenever steam trains are running to be inundated with inquiries from people wanting to know when the train passes through their patch. VSOE rarely has intermediate timings so that they can photograph it, although the resultant publicity is admittedly welcome. Lineside trespass is still an ongoing problem too.
This year, building on the success of 1995, VSOE has launched the steam experience as part of its own product, concentrating on Southampton, Portsmouth and Dover as core routes, together with lunch trips around Surrey and so far all the steam trains have been fully booked, which is good news for the entire steam scene.
MNLPS has been appointed as steam agents for VSOE and has arranged for No. 34027 Taw Valley to become the second engine for the steam programme this year. There is even talk of extending to a Dover-Calais service utilising the closed Dover Western Docks station, but this ambitious project is fraught with problems.
Royalty
Back to the train itself, it was for me an enormous thrill to ride in Perseus, which had once been reserved for royalty and was used in Winston Churchill’s funeral train. Each coach is unique in character and decor. Each steward is completely responsible for the interior of his own coach and it shows. Four of the crew were on the original ‘Brighton Belle’, which did six trips a day, with the coaches of the 7pm and 11pm trains from Victoria being more like club cars. Regulars like Laurence Olivier added to the atmosphere.
Today each coach has its own atmosphere. The men are a very happy team who love their work. The train manager describes a day trip on the British side of the ‘Orient Express’ as being like a restaurant of the ’30s and ’40s, whereas the continental side is like a hotel of the same era. He did comment that coal dust is a major enemy but said that things seemed to go smoother when there is a steam engine on the front. Smokeless fuel would go down a treat with the train crew as in heavy weather, smoke sticks to the carriages, although the loco crew and the purists would no doubt have an apoplexy!
Sitting in my plush armchair, I enjoyed the friendly ambience of a relaxed and elegantly simple meal, starting with a welcoming glass of champagne. As the train rolled along through the Hampshire countryside, I was reminded of the atmosphere in a fine country house amongst friends. All this and Clan Line too!
And what of the future? It all looks steamy at the moment, especially if things carry on as they are with full trains and people happy to pay a premium for the privilege of steam-hauled travel.
It is essentially a celebration market with many regulars and 50 per cent of passengers travelling on personal recommendation. My own ambition is to travel all the way to Venice… but perhaps not behind Clan Line!
